Island Peak Climbing, being a climber from Slovenia I had first explored Manaslu region as a trekking trip in Nepal with NEST Adventure and I had already decide for being back to Nepal for Island Peak Climbing, from that time I fell in love with mountains of Nepal as they are so different in comparison to our European mountain and its amazing there is settlement here even on elevation of around 4500 m from sea level which already excess highest mountain of our Europe. It’s quite funny here in Nepal that people call everything hill even they are more than 5500 m from sea level and the reason is funny cause it’s not covered by snow.
Recently I had climb Island Peak in Everest Region with three of my friends from Slovenia of the middle of August as it was not peak season time trail are almost empty but it was fun although weather turns our little bit bad at the last moment of Island Peak Climbing. We start our trip from early morning flight from Lukla which was canceled twice so we were able to fly to Lukla two day before as per plan so we had to quit our trip to Everest Base Camp as we don’t want to lose our international flight cause weather was not predictable and flight might get canceled at any time.
We had rent all our equipment from Dingboche that was required for Island Peak Climbing as some of the equipment was not included in our Island Peak Climbing Packages. Although all major gears are included on cost what we had paid for some personal gears necessary to Climb Island Peak like globes, sleeping bags, sunglasses and mountaineering shoes. It almost took something around six days for us to reach Chukung, from where Island Peak Base Camp was around three and a half hours of walking distance.
Upon reaching on Island Peak Base Camp small training season was conducted where we revise our skill of using mountain gears again and had some dinner go for bed quite early, it was something around six o’clock when we go for bed on a tent, actually, it was the mattress, not a big wooden cozy bed. Exactly at around 1 o’clock in the night, our climbing guide Tenzin blow a big whistle as he was one of senior climber for that climbing days and everybody was consulting with him for weather forecast and other technical terms of mountaineering. With headlamp on we head toward the summit of Island Peak following PD + difficulty grade on basis of its northwest ridge for climbing.
Early morning before sunrise we were already on the summit as we are kind of expert climber according to Tenzin; he said we are best clients for him as we are very skilled in compare to other normal climbers even on that day. We watch one of the best sunrises on Nepal Himalayas from the summit of Island Peak; the sky was bright blue I had ever seen in my life. Passing again back through headwall crevasse encountered on routes of Island Peak, the same day we descend down to Dingboche and next day Monjo, next day to Lukla and finally back to Kathmandu. Here are some of the things I would like to let others know who are interested in Climbing Island Peak.
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Island Peak Climbing Idea
- Always analyze calculated risk for possible delay of Kathmandu Luka or Lukla Kathmandu flight, so that you can minimize the chance of missing international flight. For this, you need to allocate a minimum of four to five days after the end of the trip.
- Travel light; you can always rent all necessary gears in Dingboche or Chukung so that you can minimize cost. For example, if you hire certain stuff from Thamel you need to pay for entire days but if from Chukung then you can pay for climbing periods only.
- Always listen to your climbing guide very carefully follow his instruction because the final summit ridge of Island Peak very technical and steep ascend as well as descend are encountered with crevasses. You don’t need particular use of Ice Axe, so I don’t recommend carrying an ice ax.
- Although climbing shoes can be hired from Dingboche, they are the cheap show which is a bit heavier than normal shoes, so for particular climbing equipment, I recommend to have your own personal lightweight climbing shoes.
Island Peak Climbing Picture
Without any doubt I recommend my climbing guide Tenzin, trekking guide Krishna and crew of NEST Adventure for their outstanding services and all last-minute arrangement for our Island Peak Climb, I wish to be back to Nepal one day again for certain expedition most probably Mt. Ama Dablam because me and my team we had already accomplished Island Peak Climbing.
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