The South Side of Mount Everest (Nepal) is the preferred choice for most climbers because it offers well-established logistics, experienced expedition operators, and a higher number of successful ascents each season. The North Side (Tibet, China) is typically less crowded but presents colder temperatures, stronger winds, and a more exposed climb at higher elevations. Neither route is universally better; the right choice depends on your mountaineering experience, budget, preferred climbing style, and the logistics and permit requirements for your expedition.
Without a shadow of a doubt, as mountaineers, we all share the dream of climbing the world’s highest peak, Mount Everest (8,848.86 m / 29,031.7 ft), one day. When planning your expedition, you may find yourself deciding between the North Face Route and the South Face Route, wondering which one is the better choice.
The North Face and the South Face of Everest are something every aspiring climber should understand before planning an expedition. Both routes lead to the summit of the mountain. Nonetheless, the journey, difficulty, cost, weather, and overall climbing experience are quite different.
The North Face is in Tibet (China) and is less commonly used for Everest expeditions. The South Face, on the other hand, is the most popular and well-established route, starting from Nepal. Both have their own advantages, challenges, and unique characteristics.
In this blog, we’ll compare the two routes to make them easy to understand. By the end, you’ll have a clear understanding of their difficulty, safety, permits, crowds, and success rates, making it easier to decide which side is the best fit for your Everest expedition.
Everest North Face vs South Face at a Glance
| Feature | North Side (Tibet, China) | South Side (Nepal) |
|---|---|---|
| Standard Route | Northeast Ridge | Southeast Ridge |
| Starting Point | Everest North Base Camp | Everest South Base Camp |
| Base Camp Altitude | 5,150 m (16,896 ft) | 5,364 m (17,598 ft) |
| Final Camp Before Summit | Camp III (8,300 m / 27,231 ft) | Camp IV (South Col) – 7,950 m (26,085 ft) |
| Summit Altitude | 8,848.86 m (29,031.7 ft) | 8,848.86 m (29,031.7 ft) |
| Difficulty | More technical and exposed | Less technical but physically demanding |
| Main Hazards | Strong winds, Second Step, high-altitude exposure | Khumbu Icefall, avalanches, crevasses |
| Weather | Colder, drier, and windier | Slightly warmer with more snowfall |
| Crowds | Less crowded | More crowded |
| Success Rate | Generally lower | Generally higher |
| Commercial Expeditions | Fewer | More |
| Helicopter Rescue | Generally unavailable on the mountain | Available below the Death Zone when conditions permit |
| Best Season | April–May | April–May |
| Best For | Experienced climbers seeking a quieter and more technical ascent | First-time Everest climbers and commercial expeditions |
North Face vs South Face: A Detailed Comparison
When comparing the North Face and South Face of Everest, it’s hard to give a single answer saying that one route is better and should be chosen by every climber. Actually, it varies depending on your climbing experience, goals, and the type of adventure you want to experience.
The South Face is located in Nepal. It’s the most popular route, with well-established infrastructure, experienced Sherpa support, better rescue options, and a higher success rate. Yet you still face some difficulties on this route. First, you must pass through the dangerous Khumbu Icefall, and then you’ll encounter heavier crowds during the main climbing season (spring).
In contrast, the North Face is situated in Tibet (China). It experiences far less traffic than the South Side, but stronger winds, colder temperatures, and more technically demanding sections near the summit, especially the Second Step, make it a more challenging climb. Furthermore, rescue options are also more limited.
Overall, the South Face is ideal for most climbers due to its well-developed support system and generally higher success rate. The North Face is best suited to experienced mountaineers seeking greater solitude and a more technically demanding adventure.
Where Are the North Face and South Face of Mount Everest?
Mount Everest is on the border between Nepal and China. You can climb it from both sides, which is very rare when compared to other mountains in the world.
The South Face lies in the Solukhumbu District, Koshi Province, eastern Nepal, within Sagarmatha National Park, one of the country’s UNESCO World Heritage Sites. To climb the mountain from this side, you need to trek from Lukla to Everest Base Camp (EBC, 5,364 m / 17,598 ft) via several beautiful places:
- Namche Bazaar
- Tengboche
- Dingboche
- Lobuche
- Gorakshep
After you finally reach EBC, your expedition officially begins, and you climb through the Khumbu Icefall, Western Cwm (a broad glacial valley), Lhotse Face, South Col, and finally to the summit.
The North Face is in the Tibet Autonomous Region of China. Trekking isn’t required for an Everest expedition from this side, as a roadway reaches Everest North Base Camp (5,150 m / 16,896 ft) across the Tibetan Plateau. From the base camp, the route leads to the summit via the North Col, North Ridge, and the Three Steps.
By the way, both routes take you to the same summit of Mount Everest. Nonetheless, they offer different landscapes, challenges, weather conditions, and overall climbing experiences.
Why Do Climbers Compare the North Face and South Face?
Comparing the North Face and South Face is the first step in planning an Everest expedition. Neither route is right or wrong; both lead to the summit of the world’s highest mountain, after all. It’s simply a matter of your experience, confidence, and how challenging an adventure you want to take on.
Most climbers don’t compare these routes just to find the easier one; they do it because choosing the route that best suits their goals affects almost every part of the journey. Both routes take different approaches to reaching the base camp, require different permits and logistics, and offer different climbing experiences.
The comparison also helps climbers plan their expedition based on their time, budget, and preparation. If you choose the South Route, you’ll need to trek for several days through the Khumbu Region to reach Everest Base Camp (EBC) before beginning the climb. In contrast, the North Route doesn’t require a long approach trek, as you can reach Everest North Base Camp by vehicle. Both routes can significantly shape your journey to Mount Everest, even before the climb begins.
Why Do Most Climbers Choose the South Face?
There are several reasons why most climbers choose the South Face for their Everest expedition:
- Better support system: The South Face has experienced Sherpa guides, well-developed infrastructure, well-established camps, fixed ropes, and reliable logistics throughout the journey.
- Higher summit success rate: Due to its well-developed infrastructure and organized support, climbers generally have a higher summit success rate on this route.
- More rescue options: Helicopter evacuations are possible from lower camps when conditions allow, and medical facilities at Everest Base Camp (EBC) are also better.
- A scenic approach: You need to trek for several days to Everest Base Camp (EBC) before climbing Mount Everest. Along the way, you pass through Sherpa villages, ancient monasteries, and spectacular Himalayan landscapes, adding more memorable moments to your expedition.
- Easier expedition logistics: Kathmandu is the main hub for Everest expeditions, where you can easily arrange permits, essential climbing gear, and flights.
- A historic route: It’s the route used during the first confirmed ascent of Mount Everest by Sir Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay Sherpa on 29 May 1953. Following the same path adds a sense of history to the expedition.
If you’d like to experience the Khumbu Region without climbing Everest, the Everest Three Passes Trek is one of Nepal’s most rewarding adventures.
Why Do Experienced Climbers Choose the North Face?
Despite the lower popularity of the North Face, some experienced climbers still choose it for an Everest expedition, and that comes with a few good reasons:
- Less traffic: Since this route is less commercialized and more technical, there are fewer crowds along the way. As a result, climbers usually spend less time waiting in queues, and the climb feels more peaceful.
- No Khumbu Icefall: There’s no icefall like the Khumbu Icefall along this route, which is regarded as one of the most demanding sections of the South Face route.
- A bigger climbing challenge: The North Route has a steeper ridge, stronger winds, and technically demanding sections, such as the Second Step. All these aspects make it more rewarding for experienced mountaineers.
- Easy access to base camp: Thanks to a well-developed roadway, climbers can reach Everest North Base Camp directly by vehicle. They don’t need to combine the expedition with a long approach trek, saving both time and energy.
Is the North Face Harder Than the South Face?
Comparing the North Face and the South Face, the North Face appears harder, but it doesn’t mean the other side is easier or can be climbed without any pressure. Both routes have challenges in their own way.
On the North Side, climbers must spend more time in the Death Zone to reach the summit, making every extra hour a physical and mental burden. Besides, it leaves little room for error; one mistake can cost you your life.
Unfortunately, if you get exhausted and are left behind your group, recovering from the situation is much harder here. You should be very careful with your pace, and your decisions should be wise from beginning to end.
On the other hand, the South Side has its own story. The Khumbu Icefall is one of the toughest sections and comes soon after leaving Everest Base Camp (EBC). Hence, calling it easy can be your biggest mistake.
At the end of the day, both routes push you to the edge and test your limits. It’s just that the North Face demands slightly more endurance, sound decision-making, and climbing experience.
Which Side of Everest Is Safer?
Regarding the safer side of Everest, it’s generally the South Face route in Nepal. But wait, don’t think that climbing from this side is like a children’s game.
It’s just safer; definitely not easy. Thanks to experienced Sherpa climbers who have fixed the ropes, established camps, and helped create a safer route to the summit. Besides, rescue options are also better on this side.
Nevertheless, the South Route still has demanding sections, including the Khumbu Icefall. It comes your way right after you leave Everest Base Camp (EBC), so your expedition from this side begins with one of its biggest challenges. It’s considered one of the most dangerous sections due to the constant movement of the glacier.
Although the North Side avoids this section, it still faces other challenges and risks, such as the following:
- Spending more time in the Death Zone
- Facing extreme weather conditions
- Having very limited rescue options
For this reason, there’s no easy side to climb Mount Everest. It’s just the South Route that’s generally considered safer than the North due to better logistics, a stronger support network, and better emergency rescue options when conditions allow.
Is the North Face Colder Than the South Face?
In general, the North Face is considered colder than the South Face, as many climbers, such as Cathy O’Dowd, Pemba Doma Sherpa, Anish Luitel, and David Liano Gonzalez, who have summited from both sides, have observed. It’s because this route is more exposed to the winds sweeping across the Tibetan Plateau, making the winds stronger and the temperatures colder.
The conditions on the South Face are also extreme, but some sections receive more sunlight. It means this side of Everest is just slightly less harsh, not warm by any means.
The freezing conditions on the North Side make the climb more challenging, as climbers use more energy to keep themselves warm and reduce the risk of frostbite and other cold-related problems. Nevertheless, above 8,000 m (26,246.72 ft), freezing conditions are inevitable, whether you climb from the North or the South Side of the mountain. It’s just the North Side that is generally colder.
Which Side of Everest Has a Higher Summit Success Rate?
It’s generally the South Face of Everest that has a higher summit success rate. Not because it’s easier to climb from this side; the main reason is that climbers have access to a more established support system throughout the expedition.
The route is well managed, with established camps, fixed ropes, and experienced Sherpa guides and support teams. Moreover, communication systems and emergency rescue options are generally better, which are very limited on the other side. With such support and facilities, climbers can focus more on the climb than on logistics.
Relative Everest Summit Success by Route
The South Face of Mount Everest in Nepal generally records higher summit success than the North Face in Tibet, China, although actual results vary from season to season.
Note: This is an illustrative comparison, not a fixed success-rate percentage. Actual summit success depends on weather, route conditions, expedition support, climbing experience, and the season.
Which Side of Everest Has More Deaths?
Speaking of total fatalities, more deaths have been recorded on the South Face than on the North Face so far. Not because this side is inherently more dangerous, but because of its commercialization, far more climbers choose this route every year. Hence, it’s natural for the South Route to record a higher number of accidents and fatalities.
The Khumbu Icefall, which is already one of the most technical sections of the South Route, contributes to a higher risk of fatalities. Besides, it contains numerous crevasses and is prone to hazards such as avalanches. These are some of the reasons why the total number of fatalities is higher on this side than on the other, despite it generally being considered slightly safer to climb.
However, the higher number of deaths doesn’t tell the whole story. Serious risks exist on both the North Face and the South Face of Mount Everest. Whether climbers choose either side, their experience, acclimatization, weather conditions, and decision-making can have a huge impact on safety.
How Much Does It Cost to Climb the North Face vs the South Face?
It doesn’t matter which side you choose to climb; an Everest expedition is always expensive due to its reputation as the world’s highest mountain. Climbers generally pay between USD 30,000 and USD 80,000+ for a properly guided expedition. The cost also varies depending on the expedition operator you choose, the level of support you prefer, and the services included.
Compared with the North Face, which costs approximately USD 30,000 to USD 45,000 per person, the South Face is generally more expensive, costing around USD 40,000 to USD 80,000 per person for an expedition. The South Route is more expensive for the following reasons:
- Permit fees and other government charges are generally higher.
- The several-day trek to Everest Base Camp (EBC) adds extra logistics expenses, including flights, food, accommodation, guides, and porters.
- The South Face offers more mountaineering support, including experienced Sherpa guides, better camp facilities, fixed ropes, and better emergency rescue options.
North Face vs South Face Cost Comparison
The table below compares the typical cost of climbing Mount Everest from the North Face (Tibet, China) and the South Face (Nepal). Actual expedition prices vary depending on the operator, permit fees, group size, level of support, oxygen supply, and the services included.
| Cost Factor | North Face (Tibet, China) | South Face (Nepal) |
|---|---|---|
| Typical Expedition Cost | USD 30,000–45,000 | USD 40,000–80,000+ |
| Government Permit Fees | Generally lower | Generally higher |
| Base Camp Access | Drive to Everest North Base Camp | Trek to Everest Base Camp (EBC) |
| Approach Logistics | Simpler and shorter | Longer and more expensive |
| Sherpa Support | Available | Extensive and well established |
| Emergency Rescue | More limited | Better emergency rescue options |
| Overall Cost | Generally lower | Generally higher |
Everest Climbing Permits
The permits required for an Everest expedition are different for the North Face and the South Face because they are located in two different countries: the North Face in China (Tibet Autonomous Region) and the South Face in Nepal. Both countries have their own mountaineering regulations, permit systems, and expedition requirements.
North Face
For the North Face, the China Tibet Mountaineering Association (CTMA) manages Everest climbing permits. Climbers typically pay around USD 15,800 to USD 18,000 per person through an authorized expedition operator. The cost usually includes the climbing permit, the Alien’s Travel Permit for foreign climbers, and environmental management fees for waste collection at the base camp and higher camps.
South Face
The permit to climb Everest via this route is obtained from the Ministry of Culture, Tourism and Civil Aviation (Department of Tourism) through a local expedition agency authorized by the Government of Nepal. The fee varies by season.
The main climbing season in Nepal is spring (March to May). During this period, the climbing permit costs USD 15,000 per person.
This is the updated fee, increased by around 36%, which officially took effect on 1 September 2025. Previously, the permit cost was USD 11,000 per person.
For the other seasons, the fee is lower. During autumn (September to November), the permit costs USD 7,500 per person. During winter (December to February) and the monsoon season (June to August), the fee is the same at USD 3,750 per person. However, if you plan to climb Everest via one of the other approved routes on the South Side, the climbing permit fee is different:
| Season | South Face (Normal Route) | South Face (Other Routes) |
|---|---|---|
| Spring (March–May) | USD 15,000 | USD 10,000 |
| Autumn (September–November) | USD 7,500 | USD 5,000 |
| Winter (December–February) | USD 3,750 | USD 2,500 |
| Monsoon (June–August) | USD 3,750 | USD 2,500 |
Along with the Everest climbing permit, climbers are also required to obtain the following permits before beginning the expedition:
- Sagarmatha National Park Entry Permit: USD 20 (NPR 3,000) per person
- Khumbu Pasang Lhamu Rural Municipality Entry Permit: USD 20 (NPR 3,000) per person
Can Beginners Climb Either Route?
To be honest, Mt. Everest isn’t a mountain to be attempted without prior climbing experience. Even with advanced mountaineering training, it isn’t enough to reach an elevation of 8,848.86 m (29,031.7 ft) from either route. Doing so is a risk that no one should take.
On top of that, the Government of Nepal has proposed a new requirement under the Integrated Tourism Bill that would require climbers to have previously summited a 7,000 m (22,965.88 ft) peak in Nepal before attempting Everest. The proposal aims to improve climber safety and reduce fatalities during Everest expeditions from the South Face.
Can You Visit Both Everest Base Camps?
Yes, of course. Tourists are allowed to visit both the North Everest Base Camp in Tibet (China) and the South Everest Base Camp in Nepal, provided they obtain the required permits.
Both base camps offer stunning views of Mt. Everest and the surrounding peaks of the Mahalangur Himal. Nevertheless, the journey and overall experience are different on each side.
It’s easier to reach the North Everest Base Camp from the Tibet side, as there’s a proper roadway leading to the base camp. You can travel by vehicle, making the journey faster and requiring little or no trekking.
However, the situation on Nepal’s side is completely different. There’s no road access to the South Everest Base Camp. Instead, you’ll need to follow a trekking trail through several beautiful Sherpa villages to reach the base camp.
You’ll need to endure several days of hiking at high altitude, but believe me, once you finally reach the base camp, you’ll be rewarded with breathtaking views of Mount Everest and the surrounding Himalayan peaks that are difficult to experience anywhere else in the world. It’s hard to beat the adventure of the Everest Base Camp Trek in Nepal.
Why I Would Choose the South Face
I’d personally choose the South Face route for an Everest expedition. Not because it’s easier or because it has better infrastructure and stronger climbing support, but because it offers a more complete adventure in the Everest Region.
As a Nepalese who has worked with trekkers and climbers for years, I’ve experienced what makes this route feel so special. The adventure begins long before you reach the summit.
On this route, you hike through authentic Sherpa villages, monasteries, and dense forests, giving you the opportunity to better understand the local culture and natural beauty of the Everest Region. Think of it this way: your goal isn’t just to stand on the summit, but also to enjoy every single step of the expedition.
However, my perspective doesn’t mean the North Face route has less to offer. It also rewards climbers with spectacular mountain views, fewer crowds, and a quieter climbing experience. It’s ideal for those with extensive mountaineering experience who prefer a more remote and peaceful adventure.
Final Thoughts
Regarding Everest’s North Face and South Face, there’s no clear winner. Both routes lead to the same summit, but the adventure along the way is completely different. The South Face offers better support and the classic Everest Base Camp Trek through traditional Sherpa villages and monasteries in the Khumbu Region, while the North Face offers a quieter route with greater technical challenges.
At the end of the day, the best route is the one that matches your experience, goals, and climbing style. Whichever side you choose, Everest is a mountain that rewards good preparation, patience, and respect above all else.
If you’re also interested in how Mount Everest compares with the world’s second-highest peak, explore our Everest vs K2 comparison to learn how they differ in difficulty, climbing style, and overall challenge.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs)
No. In normal commercial expeditions, climbers return the same way they ascend. Crossing the summit from Nepal to Tibet (or vice versa) requires permits from both countries and extensive logistical planning, making it very uncommon.
The South Face in Nepal is the preferred route for most commercial expeditions. It has better infrastructure, experienced Sherpa support, and more established logistics than the North Face.
Yes. The North Face generally has fewer climbers because access is more restricted and fewer commercial expeditions operate from the Tibet side. The South Face is much busier during the spring climbing season.
The North Everest Base Camp offers a closer and more direct view of Mount Everest. The South Everest Base Camp provides spectacular mountain scenery, but the summit itself is largely hidden by surrounding peaks.
The South Face in Nepal is by far the more popular route. Every year, it attracts significantly more climbers because of its well-developed support system and easier expedition logistics.
Yes. Most climbers on both the North Face and the South Face use supplemental oxygen above the high camps to improve safety and increase their chances of reaching the summit.
Yes, but very few climbers do. Most commercial expeditions on the South Face rely on experienced Sherpa guides and support teams for route preparation, logistics, and high-altitude assistance.
Yes. Climbers on the North Face do not pass through the Khumbu Icefall. Instead, they face other challenges, including stronger winds, exposed ridge climbing, and technical sections near the summit.
Both routes offer incredible Himalayan scenery, but the experience is different. The South Face combines Sherpa villages, forests, monasteries, and high mountain landscapes, while the North Face features the vast Tibetan Plateau and dramatic views of Everest’s northern slopes.
Yes, but doing so requires separate permits, additional logistics, and considerable time and expense. Most climbers choose only one route for a single expedition.
Yes. The South Face was used during the first successful ascent of Mount Everest by Sir Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay Sherpa on 29 May 1953. Today, it remains the most popular route for Everest expeditions because of its well-established infrastructure, experienced Sherpa support, and higher summit success rate.
Commercial aircraft generally avoid flying directly over Mount Everest because of the extreme altitude, strong jet stream winds, unpredictable weather, and the limited number of emergency landing options in the Himalayas. Instead, flights follow safer routes around the mountain.
There is no single cause of death on Mount Everest. Most fatalities result from a combination of altitude-related illness, falls, avalanches, exhaustion, exposure to extreme cold, and sudden weather changes. Proper acclimatization, good decision-making, and experienced expedition support significantly improve climber safety.
If you’re interested in Everest’s climbing history, you can also learn about Sleeping Beauty and Green Boots, two of the mountain’s most well-known stories that highlight the realities of high-altitude mountaineering.
